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Without suffering, there'd be no compassion
Surf. Long Beach. Girls. Heartbreak.

It sucks when you wake up from a dream.

23.4.13; Shanghai Airport (PVG), Gate 213. 15:49, 26 minutes until boarding back to HK

 

As I sit on the floor of the airport waiting to board my flight back to Hong Kong, on my fourth Natural Valley Trail Mix bar because I don’t have a single dollar in cash, I contemplate the complicated process I had to endure to travel from Bali on my return. Bali to Shanghai, claim double surfboard bag with clothes, bring it to transfer area. A man continues to blatantly stare at me possibly because he thinks I’m carrying a large coffin, or maybe it’s just because he’s never seen any foreigner bring something like this through an airport before. Check it in again, once again go through customs, take my laptop out, and wait the frivolous 2 hours before my 2 hour flight back to Hong Kong. The things one will do to save a few bucks, I guess, right?

 

A few minutes earlier, the area was quiet enough for you to hear a pin drop from across the room. Now, a Hong Kong tour group has entered, nearly doubling the amount of people here. One woman asks a monk if he wants to drink coffee in Cantonese, and this steers me away from my Korean review for my final examination and reminds me about the 5 minute oral presentation I have with Michelle in two days. How did I get to this?

 

My laptop charges in an outlet next to four other outlets that don’t work. My laptop will turn off completely if it isn’t charged, so even the slightest movement of the battery will make me lose my work (reminds me to save my progress). A man comes, another man comes by and tries to plug his laptop into every outlet, ironically it’s also a DELL. Still, more Cantonese loud conversations take place at the gate. I guess Mainlanders must also feel the same way Hong Kong locals think about Mainlanders in Hong Kong…

 

After being in Asia for 8 months now, I’ve traveled to some different countries, embraced different cultures, met some amazing people, and made a lot of great memories along the way and captured them with Kenny’s Canon Rebel XTI. Meeting my moms family in Philippines for the first time, finally going to Korea, partying with my cousin from Far East Movement and my sister in Beijing, surfing in Taiwan, enjoying Chinese New Year with Annie’s family in Shenzhen, riding ATV’s in Cambodia and even meeting someone that could be the one I relocate for. Coming from a blurred but exciting adventure in Shanghai with my sister and Philip, my friend that I’ve known for over 10 years who recently relocated, was so surreal. Here we were 3 people from a homely small suburb in the O.C. to being reunited in the vast populous, constantly moving metropolis of Shanghai. I’ve had the opportunity to see some amazing things, and although fortunate, many students that complain about how jealous they may be about what I’m doing have the same opportunity to do this for themselves, or had it, but didn’t act on it. And that’s not my fault.

 

The point of this mindless rant is that, after all the places I’ve been to, the place I’ve been dreaming of going ever since I knew about the exotic lifestyle of the traveling surfer was a trip to Bali. Although cut short because of final examinations, the one week I spent in this tropical paradise was the greatest experience of all my trips. Even if it takes me over 15 hours just to get back to residence, even if I have to lug my boards onto the bus again, even if the trip cost future Darren lots of money, even if I didn’t get the barrel I was searching for, even if I didn’t get laid, I had the most unforgettable time making new friends from Germany, Sweden, Poland, Italy, Tasmania, Switzerland, Germany (there were A LOT) and surfing in warm water, which is what every surfer on this planet dreams of. Eating cheap food at the Wa Rung that might possibly make you sick and give you the “Bali belly,” weaving through oncoming traffic on your own motobike that costs $5USD/day, riding double, even triple guys on a motorbike, surfing into the dark, drinking Bintangs and dancing at the Deus, waking up at 5:30am for Dawn patrol sessions although Martin had to wake me up, even passing out on the couch outside and waking up with an extremely swollen hand because some probable poisonous breed of mosquito bit the shit out of me; it was all worth it.

 

Which brings me to where I am now. I’ll probably fail my Principles of Public Relations course, maybe get C’s in Cantonese and Korean (BIG MAYBE), who knows what the hell is going on with my Advanced News Writing course, and 2 more weeks in Hong Kong before I go to Thailand for two weeks, only to return with 2 days left in Asia before I head back to the O.C. Sure, the thought of being back in H.B. for summer surfing sounds great, but without the prospect of foreign countries, not knowing the language, eating great food, meeting people that teach you new things, gives me extreme anxiety. Which has brought me to this conclusion: if I can’t find work in Cali during this summer, something that can keep me grounded for the next year at least, I’m either going to Korea to teach English or Shanghai where I can move in with my sister and Susan. It’s true: once you get bit by the travel bug, there’s no going back. I can’t stay in Cali and act like everything is okay, after I’ve been gone for so long. Besides the 5 weeks I spent in Cali during the summer, I will not have been home for over one year (including this summer spent at the Sebastian Inlet). Well, they just called my gate. I gotta go. Until next time. <3

 

Editors note: My group let me present with them, so I can still pass my PR course. After unpacking my bag, I discovered I left my favorite, most expensive pair of boardies at the camp. I told Sophe to give them to Top. Enjoy brudda, they deserve to be worn by someone who can actually rip.

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CNY late update

imageDidn’t know ShenZhen could look this beautiful.

  I have never experienced Chinese New Year in my whole life. To be quite honest, I don’t even have Chinese friends back home in California. While a majority of my friends are of Korean descent, the reason for the lack of Chinese peer influence in my life is due to the upbringing in a Korean dominated region of Southern California, Fullerton. So needless to say, this was my first authentic, traditional Chinese New Year experience. I had the privilege of spending it with my best friend and her family in Shenzhen. And to say that I was treated as family would be an understatement.

imageYang Yang loved me. She was adorable, but entertaining kids can be draining.

Traveling from Hong Kong to Shenzhen wouldn’t even seem like traveling to another country at all if you didn’t get the stamp at immigration in your passport. Although Shenzhen is much larger, greener, and flooded with scooters, the mix of Cantonese and Mandarin would make you think you’re still in Hong Kong (but with slightly less pushing than Beijing). Annie was concerned that I would get lost along the way but I insisted that I’d find my way back to her place, since I’ve been there once before. Without further warning, as I walked up the six flights of stairs, I was greeted with a roomful of her relatives from Mainland. Needless to say, my few weeks of Cantonese class were a bit useless now. But as we sat down to a magnificent feast of stir fried vegetables, bbq pork, Chinese sausage, fish and seafood assortments, I did my best to contain my excitement and smile politely while saying “She She” after comments were directed towards me.

imageAnnie and her Mum. Two sweet ladies.

Being from the States, it wasn’t that I felt uncomfortable accepting Lai See, I just felt bad because I’m not Chinese and was thankful enough for their hospitality and the satisfying of my palette  I’m completely easy to please and terribly low maintenance, so I thanked them many times but kindly rejected saying there was no need. Of course, in the end, I grudgingly accepted. After a trip to the Window of the World, an amusement park that showcases different geographical landmarks from all corners of the globe with Annie, we found ourselves back at her residence in time for a fireworks display that would make Disneyland employees in America envious. 

imageThis was after Yang Yang slipped and busted her lip while running around. The nurturing care of a mother is quite comforting.

One of my favorite parts of, well, anything, is eating. And at 12 midnight we sat down and indulged in over 200 steamed dumplings. The twist was that three contained a peanut, and the person that found one would have good luck for the rest of the year of the snake. I’m completely superstitious  but with the Chinese I’m in good company. After concentrating on one batch of dumplings, I said to Annie, “Time to switch it up a bit,” and proceeded to eat from another. The first one I selected from the other plate had the peanut, and not only am I supposed to have good luck for this year, I also received an additional Lai See! The kids were a bit upset, disappointed, and right out angry that this Gwailo could march up and win. When you’re not trying for something, and doing it for the pure fun (as I was, just wanting to eat my brains out), things seem to go your way, don’t they?

imageThese two gnarly dudes are cousins. Well behaved and yet so much fun!

To spend Chinese New Year with my best friend and her amazing family was definitely one of the greatest highlights of my trip, and further solidifies my opinion that it was a great idea to extend my exchange for one more semester. Anyone that says Chinese people aren’t hospitable hasn’t truly experienced their culture authentically. My only regret was not being able to speak Cantonese better, or say more than “Thank You” in Mandarin. The memories I’ve created this CNY will last a lifetime, spending it with people I truly care about. And you can’t put a Lai See on that.

Dear Diary.

This photo is from a stop motion film my Visual Communication group made. We reenacted the dance scene from Smooth Criminal. 

I’m torn between two decision, to take another semester at CityU as an exchange or go back home and start my life? Of course, the obvious answer is to delay the inevitable as long as I can, otherwise known as the real world, and stay and travel in Asia because: who knows when I will be back here? I kinda started dating this girl that seems to be really keen on me, but her exchange ends soon but she only lives in ShenZhen so it is quite easy for her to travel to HK on the weekends. I don’t really want to be in a serious relationship, but she’s really amazing. However, I can’t control my mind from wandering. 

I have just reached 120 units, the number of credits needed to obtain a Bachelors Degree, so staying one more semester isn’t really necessary. I will be taking out student loans, but my tuition is covered for so the loans are just for my living expenses, which should primarily be flying, eating, and club 711 drinks. A new batch of exchangers will come in too. Of course I want to see some of my good friends, and of course my mom and sister. But the privilege to be in a foreign country away from America, to act as an obnoxious American kid here and get away with it is far too much fun to let go! Singing on the MTR, talking to random people, acting foolish with your mates in a drunken stupor in LKF are just some of the outrageous things one can get into while being in Hong Kong.

Not to mention going surfing with some awesome cats, and trunking it in the middle of November? Last week we got some AMAZING waves, and I was able to raise my confidence level going into this competition this weekend. I had one wave that Kev saw that I did four backside turns on, I was stoked! If I can surf somewhat like that, maybe I can actually make some heats? Either way I’m expecting to get eliminated like I did for the CSULB Surf Team tryouts last year, so I just want to enjoy the experience. I want to look cool as I wear my lime green Quiksilver Wetsuit top, knock off purple Beats by Dre headphones, bumping some Skrillex to get myself pumped then some New Found Glory to further get myself pumped as I take a warm up jog down the sand.

I’ve already been approved to stay in my dorm, which costs ~$620 American dollars for the entire semester. I’ve payed for my student Visa extension (~$20 American), and chosen my courses (although still waiting approval), which will include learning Korean in Hong Kong. Ya, a bit weird. I’m just getting stoked to finally check out Korea on the 10th of Dec., then leaving going straight to visit Jenn in Beijing on the 17th. But with my mom telling me I should think about my future, that living out here for one semester is a luxury, and staying even though I’m finished is foolish, I’m still torn.

Any help/suggestions? Thanks.

How Surf can Heal the Heart and Soul

Oct. 20, 2012

Sai Wan Village, Sai Kung Country Park, Hong Kong

-Darren Justice

On October 20th, 2012, Hong Kong’s first surf school, Surf Hong Kong, teamed up with the Non-Profit organization based out of Bundoran, Ireland Liquid Therapy and ShenZhen’s special learning needs school Recognize Academy to host the first overnight surf camp for students with special learning disabilities. Kevin Coniam, General Manager of Surf Hong Kong, called in some willing and eager reinforcements to help out with the charity event and give back to those less fortunate.

“As far as I know, a camping trip like this has never been done before. Trying to anticipate what would happen, how the kids would react, and what activities to run were quite challenging!”

Volunteers who work exclusively with Surf Hong Kong donated their time and energy to create a unique experience for students who don’t have the opportunity to see the ocean in Shenzhen, let alone go surfing, and hike through breathtaking lush mountainous waterfalls. SHK also stressed teaching them the responsibility of working as a team.

Kevin admits that there were quite a few things to take into consideration when planning an event like this, such as the vast spectrum of students coming, how to best meet their individual needs, and how much help would be needed.

“Everything ran completely smoothly, and the kids were exceptionally well behaved (in fact more helpful and polite than most of the school groups we have) and great fun!”

Kevin has been the General Manager of Surf Hong Kong, the first surf school in Hong Kong, since it opened in March, and believes in sharing the blessing of having an ocean so close to his home.

“The kids had the time of their lives out in the water and I personally noticed a huge change in their confidence and attitude that weekend. It’s all about having fun and proving to themselves that they can do it and push their limits to what they think is possible. I can’t wait for next year!”

Tom Losey, of Bundoran’s Non-Profit Liquid Therapy, works with young people facing physical, mental, emotional, and behavioral challenges and brings them into the water and helps them achieve their aquatic potential through therapy and fun. He flew in from Ireland for the event, and having been long time friends with Kevin, the two have been planning this event for some time.

“For me, personally I feel like I have an extremely privileged existence and feel strongly that it’s important to give back to society. I’m able to do that best through water based activities. The more I work with different families, the more I see the benefit of friendship, community, and support they get from the experience.”

Kate Rowan, principal and founder of Recognize Academy, was a specialized reading and writing teacher in the US, but also has over twenty years experience as a certified Olympic Ski guide for the blind. After working with as many as 1500 students a term at ShenZhen University, her passion for helping students on a more one on one basis and preventing others from being neglected in the international school system led her to a bit of a career change.


“I first started volunteering in the community when I was six. I started guiding blind skiers when I was ten.” -Kate Rowan, Principal and Founder of Recognize Academy

“There’s not a lot of awareness for special needs kids in ShenZhen, and to be apart of this is groundbreaking! In the city, kids in general never get to even walk barefoot, and this kind of exposure can create the difference between other children that can make them into global leaders.”

Out of Shekou International Community, Recognize Academy aims to support students who may not fit into an international or local school setting. Students seek the services Recognize offers because of the lack of care and recognition for those who have developed special learning needs as a result of their environment and other factors.

Adequate accommodations for those with special learning disabilities are very scarce, so children diagnosed with autism, ADHD, and dyslexia are forced to find an alternative to satisfy their needs, which is limited to say the least in ShenZhen. RA currently serves twenty students ranging from the ages of four to eighteen. Some of these students have been asked to leave their traditional schools, which is why Kate gives priority admission to students with special needs.

A home school program that’s in conjunction with a distance learning program in the USA, the students at Recognize receive credits towards an American Education. Every student has a specific education plan tailored to their needs, but all are full time from 10 am-3 pm. Not only do they focus on the core essential subjects, but these students have the opportunity to participate in community based classes such as cooking, crafting, and even sewing.

“If our kids get in big crowds, it’s definitely a safety issue. Safety is our number one concern. Another big challenge is having enough competent people with us to ensure we can handle mental breakdowns. You always have to expect the unexpected. It feels like we’re big wave surfing all the time!”

Although Visas and paperwork are also issues for Kate, she manages to work the [two] students’ trip expenses into their tuition. This is actually their third mini excursion. Their international travel ranges from the Philippines, to Vietnam, to most recently Borneo.


“I actually stumbled upon this place. After speaking with Kevin and hearing about Tom’s involvement with Autistic children in the UK, I couldn’t believe it! There are two different kinds of Autism sensory issues: one is hyper stimulated, one is hypo stimulated. Water therapy works for both, but is good for all of my kids, not just the autistic. Getting them out of their routine environment is very important, and getting them into waves was my number one goal. And you can’t keep them out of the water, they absolutely love it! I’ve never seen them smiling as much as they have all at the same time then while surfing.”

Kate believes that the world is their classroom, and it’s essential for her students to confront environmental and global issues in natural conditions rather than books, which is why she arranges for them to travel twice a year. They engage in hands on situations that will build their confidence to become well rounded future visionaries that will set them apart from other students.

It’s clear her students adore her, and as we were conducting this interview, Kate was constantly bombarded with questions, comments, and affection from all of her students, while Aiden, her fifteen year old son, listened in with poise and complete composure.

“Where’s the dinner going to be?” asks Han Lin.
“Over there.” Kate responds.
“Why?” asks Han Lin.
Kate just gives an adoring chuckle. “Because that is where we are going to eat tonight.”

Never a shortage of laughs and smiles while with Kate and her students. For more information, you can check out their website at recognizefoundation.org. For more information on Surf Hong Kong or Liquid Therapy, check out surfhongkong.com and liqdtherapy.com for more details.

When people eat or drink in the paid areas of stations

Emma thank you so much for showing me this!

cantomemes:

My take on the Rip Curl Pro Portugal 2012 Final.

Although an update is due for the Surf Hong Kong/Recognize Academy surf camp tailoring to children with special learning disabilities including Autism (which I definitely will get to as soon as Kev gives me some words to include in my article!), I’m sitting here trying to stay focused on working on a group presentation. My part is to conduct a SWOT analysis of the company Vitasoy. This isn’t interesting to me, and after getting very distracted listening to Atmosphere through my knockoff Beats by Dre headphones, I decided to give my take on the whole debacle that was the Final at Supertubos.

It has been said many times before, “this kid’s the real deal..many world titles in his future..the next Kelly Slater,” about many a rising surf superstar: Dusty Payne, Jordy Smith, Mick, Parko, the Gudangs, Mason Ho, etc.. The list goes on and on. Most recently, Kolohe, John John, and Gabriel are leading that charge, and the 3 man Round 4 heat was definitely a look into the future, the next decade of World Title races to come. Even though John John failed to show up, It was obviously noticeable that when every veteran was asked about the rise of the youth, they conceded their reign at the throne to the masters of the air verse. 

Before watching that final day over again, I first watched the final score announcement over and over again, and then the awards presentation. I wanted to see the compassion Gabriel had, an 18 year old with the world at his fingertips. It’s hard not to take sides, they both make a substantial amount of money with sponsors like Nike, and get to have an astounding quiver that many of us spend nights fantasizing about. No one will argue that the Coolum kid was overdue for his first WCT victory, but no one will argue that he was extremely conservative on that 8.43 and was over scored.  It might not be his fault that the judges gave it to him, but it definitely was his fault for not going balls to the wall in the final, on his last score able wave, and throwing some end section air verse and giving some justification to the masses that hated seeing three safety snaps.

Remember that 10 that Julian got earlier in the contest? No Claim. He knew it was an amazing wave, he didn’t need to claim it. Last wave of the contest, 2 claims? Not saying anything, especially from a guy that claims anything. Claiming is the best way to have fun while surfing, I mean, who cares what other people think? Gabriel consistently claims waves, but I didn’t see one in the final. We could sit here and break down JW’s bigger wave selection on the 7.83 Right that he doggy doored, and how maybe GM was underscored on his 7.9 clean air verse to big snap and huge wrapping vertical carve to end section float, sure. But the biggest lesson to take from this final is: Yes, we have something to look forward to after the King finally decides to leave the tour. We can have rivalries, our sport may thrive. There is a light at the end of the tunnel, and it starts with the intense emotion we saw filling the beach on that day.

As far as Gabriel leaving the awards ceremony prematurely, anyone remember when LeBron bailed after he lost in Cleveland? No one made a huge deal, because he’s the man. The next year, he showed grace in his defeat. And he was into his mid 20s by this time, it took him that long to learn that. Who’s not going to be upset/emotionally unstable in that moment? Gabriel has much to look forward to, as does Julian. They live rock star lifestyles. But they ARE human.

Last night in PI with my family, listening to Reggae, drinking red horse, feeling the love. Cant wait to get back there. (at Angels City, PI)

Last night in PI with my family, listening to Reggae, drinking red horse, feeling the love. Cant wait to get back there. (at Angels City, PI)

Wow two back to back updates in a row? must be some kind of record, especially since I didn’t even update for about a month even after the visit to the motherland! Anyway, today I had an interview with RTHK Radio 3, Hong Kong’s largest listened to English radio station. I was on Kwok Talk with host Crystal Kwok, and Becks promoting Surf Hong Kong and discussing what the element Water means to surfers and how it can serve as a therapeutic release and connections with the ocean and such. I thought I sucked but actually got some pretty good feed back so I was stoked! Mahika was right- even if I thought I didn’t do well, at least I’ll go down in Hong Kong’s history as being on a live on-air radio broadcast, which is something most people can’t say they did, even in the states. Later on I went back to Lok Fu skate park with Toni my floor mate. I’m getting closer to landing that tre flip! Took some cool shots of some local guys, and they were pumped. It feels so good to do something so small like take pictures, which I thoroughly enjoy, and make someones day. Even though I know my shots suck, at least they were psyched on it, and as long as I’m making people happy, that’s gotta be worth something. Just like when I was in the Philippines and people would ask me to take their picture when I would walk down the street: It’s not as if they will ever see those pictures again, but as long as I can leave people smiling, I feel like I actually have something to contribute to this world. 

Big week coming up: hopefully will get to check out the World Press Photo Exhibition on wed night, then I have to work thursday morning and teach some lessons to some kids, then go back to school for my lesson, then back to kevs to brief about our upcoming charity event with Liquid Therapy: I believe we’ll be working with high and low functioning autistic children and help them to surf! How amazing is that? Talk about giving back, I’m so pumped to be able to put more smiles on people’s faces. Life’s turning around out here, and I didn’t need to find it in the satisfaction of landing a chick…although…. :) jk. bye.

losing touch with my blog

it’s been a long time now since i’ve last updated, and not too much to report. I’ve kinda let my blog go Kolohe Andino (stopped updating) because..I don’t know just kinda getting over the whole thing. Since my last update, I went to visit my family in the Philippines, and that was an amazing experience. I traveled through Angeles City, Manila, Puerto Galera, and stayed at my Uncles house in Pangasinan, the village that my mother grew up in. I finally got the foreign country experience that I was looking for since coming to Hong Kong. I was treated so well, ate like a King, and saw many eye opening images that made me want to pursue the Peace Corps after I return home so that I can give back to those less fortunate than I (with the intent of applying for a student loan deferment, which can only be done after 365 consecutive days of service..ouch). Schools getting tough: my interactive digital communication course moves far too fast since I’m less familiar with programs like dreamweaver, Adobe animate, and even photoshop. Girls are far too confusing, and with a recent strikeout (far too complicated to explain/unexpected roadblocks/mindfucks) I’ve decided that I’ve pretty much gotten it out of my system. But the women are far too beautiful here to just give up now…maybe a temporary hiatus will do. On another note, I have my amateur contest coming up on the 25th of November, and in preparation for it, on Friday I hiked 3hours total not including the time I spent on buses to get to the beach. But it was the best day of surfing I’ve had so far in my life, so it makes up for it. I did the most turns I’ve ever done in one session, but I still don’t think I can make a heat. Even if I made one, I’d feel like I’ve accomplished something, seeing everyone around me has some sport they’re engaged in. 

I have a live on air radio interview tomorrow with Radio Television Hong Kong, on the Kwok Talk hour at 1:00 p.m (13:00) to discuss the element of water: What it means to someone and the livelihood it serves, it’s aura, and as a metaphor to leading a cleansed life. I know I’ll just end up sounding retarded, hopefully the attention will shift towards Becky, seeing as it’s more a show talking about women’s perspective on life and social issues. 

I’m still confused about what direction my life is going..Still confused as to why I’m here in Hong Kong, writing this entry from my dorm room while other exchangers are trekking along, satisfied with their experience. I’m not home sick; I do miss my mom, just kinda unsure about my next move. I’m thankful I don’t live in a poor slum like I saw so many children living in in Manila, but I’m just trying to stay positive. I’ve just been in my own mind fuck dealing with girls I thought I liked/ didn’t like. It would be a lot easier if I could push past all the grief. It’s better than the alternative, I guess.

I didn’t really plan to update, but since Kev created that photo of Dudeman advertising to follow my adventures, well here goes nothing.

Since the exchange party at Volar that I didn’t pay $250+ to get into thanks to Amy, I took off for Sai Wan village with Kev and Ledina for the weekend. Ledina is the San Diego native that came to Hong Kong to escape from the surreality that is California and work pro bono for Surf Hong Kong in exchange for food and board. She’s a very emotional, open, spiritual person that on the first night I connected with. After telling each other our life stories deep into the night, we fell asleep in our separate cots to the sounds of 40+ mph winds beating on the rooftop.

The next day I surfed the superbank with heavy offshores, and this was the first day that I realized that I’ve finally adjusted to the warm weather because I was freezing, wishing I brought a jacket/wetsuit top for the adventure. I didn’t need to help with lessons so I got to hang out with Nancy all day. We ran into some other CityU kids and went with them to the waterfall. It might sound wrong, but I love seeing the vulnerability of someone that can’t make the waterfall jump, and I get to coach and encourage them positively. It makes me feel like I’m contributing. But as for you girl, I’m done with mind games. Next.

After dinner and drinks with everyone and talking to Lilly all night, we fell asleep in her cot on the sand in a mosquito net under the stars. That’s a lie, because I didn’t fall asleep. I didn’t have a shirt on, and was freezing my arse off from 45+ mph winds. I spent the whole time trying to keep her warm (no blankets), and when I couldn’t take it and finally suggested we go back to my warm cot in the main room, she said no. So I b-lined it, running and not looking back.

The next day Kev asked me to do an instruction. Suffering from a bit of a headache, I kinda tanked my first ever surf instruction, even though I’m a good public speaker. I got to teach Joey, and she was ripping. Quite inspiring to see someone that young pick it up so easily. That’s all I can write about that…
The second lesson was with 14, and the third was with 17. It’s a lot of fun to see the stoke of someone that puts their mind to standing up on their first lesson. Unfortunately, because of the lesson I missed the firing swell at Tai Long Wan. But we got to sneak a few waves in on the soft top. I’ve finally come around to using those things, even though I swore I’d only ride my shorty.

That’s it for now; I’m going to Mong Kok to add some minutes to my phone. The moral of this update: I guess you don’t always have to get it in to make a great memory. You can lay under the stars in 40+ winds with no shirt trying to keep a girl warm on a Hong Kong beach, and look forward to the fact that you’ll laugh at it later in life. And also, thanks to Kev for believing in me enough to make me an instructor. I didn’t plan on working for SHK, but it looks like I’ll have to stay for a year huh?